- May 18, 2016 at 11:17 am #14490
*Disclaimer* I make no guarantee to anyones craftsmanship but my own. I write this as one way to install a hard point. Results may vary.
I see some posts on installing suspension hard points, both in plain sight and concealed. This method works for both.
This is my design and my method and I weight tested my design at 5 times my bottoms weight for 24 hours.
Yes, I care about my bottom because she is also my wife and is named on my insurance policy. IMO, there is a secure way to install hard point for suspension and is your bottom/sub worth the short cuts. Yes, I know I’ll get shit for some of this but those who really know me know I don’t give a shit. 🙂
First of all, never use a screw in eye bolt. You cannot guarantee I good hard point with a screw in lag style eye bolt. Use a threaded bolt with fender washers, double nuts and nylon locking nut. (Image Below)
Point of contention, I believe that only closed loop eye bolts should be used for suspension. Why, for a few reasons:
1) if you look at the tags on the above loops, the closed loop is load rated at 2,200 lbs. The one on the right is rated at 560 lbs. well you say that my rope bunny doesn’t weight anywhere near 560 lbs and you might be right BUT these rating are for static not dynamic loads. Getting your bottom swinging and loads can build fast, plus if you like to do dual suspension, now you are over safe working load.
2) Though rare, I have seen reports of loops bending and breaking. Talk about a bottom losing trust in a Top.
3) As you can see, the closed loop is smaller and easier to hide (Soon to be revealed) than the open loop. I use carabiners to reduce friction on my rope, which increases its lifespan. It is easier to get a carabiner on the closed loop, the open loop required a large carabiner to work.
4) Lastly, the price difference is about $6.50 where I live. These can be bought at farm supply stores or online. Is $6.50 worth it?
If you must use an open eye bolt, I would suggest spot welding it closed.
The finished product:
and yes that little red spot is my blood. Lol
To reveal it, all you do is pull off cover. No tools needed because I epoxied a strong magnet off centered to the underside of the cover.
Here is what the hard point looks like with cover removed.
Here is my first practice tie on the new hard point.
This is with an attached carabiner and rigging plate.
As for construction of the support, I used 4″ by 4″ deck hangers with appropriate hanger nails. I don’t use screws because they are more prone to break if twisted. I did use 3/8″ by 4 1/2″ lag bolts in the ends for added support and to prevent joist flex. I doubled up the 4″ by 4″‘s and drilled up through the installed 2 inch box, right through both 4″ by “4’s. I dadoed the upper 4″ by 4″ to install hardware (Fender washer, 2 nuts and 1 nylon locking nut) flush with attic flooring. I then screwed down the 3/4” plywood flooring to secure joist and further prevent twisting under loads.
This is my method and I have been very happy with the results. Is it overbuild? Hell Yes, I figure it will hold upwards of 2,000 lbs easy for extended periods. It cost me about $30 in materials and about 2 hours labor. Mostly up and down attic stairs. If you do not have an attic, you can still do this but it requires some drywall work but is doable. I will update this as details return to me.
- May 18, 2016 at 4:07 pm #14497sirParticipantBasic | Dominant
Very nice set up!
Thank you for sharing this with us.
The photos really illustrate how you set up your hard point!
- May 18, 2016 at 8:19 pm #14502AnonymousInactive
What a great set of ideas. It never crossed my mind to use a 4×4. I agree with you, no lags for the loop itself.
- May 19, 2016 at 12:12 am #14506Mr. BParticipantPremium Content | Through the Eyes of a husDOM™
Thanks for sharing.
That is an awesome set up….and I agree with Sir…pictures really help to understand the process!
I look forward to someday be at the level where I can do suspension….when my kids are out of the house..lol!
Take Care and thanks again!
- May 19, 2016 at 12:46 am #14507Sir MParticipantBasic | Dominant
If your going to do it then do it well.
I’ve been looking for a way to conceal and make things look cleaner.
- May 19, 2016 at 10:32 pm #14520
Gentlemen, thanks for the kind words. Pictures were the perfect vehicle for explaining this. I would of hated trying to write this without them.
- June 11, 2016 at 11:46 am #14730Loving LiegeParticipantBasic | Dominant
Came online today looking for exactly this information. Love the over build. I cannot imagine the horror of having my darling girl fall if something I built were to fail. Not gonna happen!!
- December 29, 2017 at 4:36 pm #70072MarshParticipantPremium Content | Through the Eyes of a husDOM™
What a wonderful setup! I can’t wait to give this a try!
- December 30, 2017 at 6:09 pm #70084
Thanks, glad you enjoyed it. Feel free to ask questions. I have done quite a few of these and always improving my techniques.
- September 3, 2018 at 1:17 pm #71321AggieRiggerParticipantBasic | Dominant
What type of plastic box is that, recessed lighting?
- September 3, 2018 at 2:20 pm #71322
Aggie Rigger, it’s just a standard 4×4 electrical box with I hole drilled in top for eye bolt. Avaliable at any home store.
- October 7, 2018 at 8:50 pm #71570StillParticipantPremium Content | Through the Eyes of a husDOM™
As Always finding gold all over the place in the forums.
Thank you this is a great idea.
- December 30, 2019 at 7:53 pm #74572Ronin68ParticipantBasic | Dominant
I am about to install two points in the living room for my wife’s “yoga swing” using basically the same setup but substituting 4 x 6s and stainless 3/8″x 12″ shoulder eye bolts. The eye bolts are a bit more costly, but the house will most likely fall before my points do.
- December 30, 2019 at 7:54 pm #74573Ronin68ParticipantBasic | Dominant
BTW, thank you for the info. This got me started in the right direction, design-wise.
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